Ties for Bespoke Suit: How to Choose & Wear Them

A wrong or right kind of tie for your bespoke suit makes a whole lot difference in your appearance. A tie could either make or break your overall aim of getting that elegant and well-polished look. 

First of all, in choosing neckties that would complement your elegant and impeccable custom suits and shirts, there are three main things that you should take into consideration: the quality, the material and the design of the tie. 

One of the classic choices in neck ties and something that greatly could add fashion flair and finesse to a bespoke suit are 100 percent silk ties. Another great but uncommon tie selection is the wool knit tie. This is a wonderful choice because it is something that you do not see often in men. 

Other types of tie fabric materials include the cashmere knit ties, which can be more expensive than silk ties, the polyester tie, the satin tie, and rayon tie. The last one is considered by many as the most durable since it is machine washable. 

If you have to wear a tie, like what every man should so especially in the business world, make sure that you know how to wear it properly. Try not to make the classic mistake of many men of wearing it either too long or too short. 

As a general rule, the tie length in a properly fitted knot (i.e. a Windsor knot) should at least graze your belt buckle, or if you do not have a belt, your waist pants. Usually, tall men should go for longer ties, but to really make sure that you are getting the proper tie for your bespoke suit, there is no other way to know for sure but to tie it on for size.

Not many men have realized this, but the shape of your face should also be taken into account in purchasing a tie. Indeed, there is an art in tie selection, but it is really up to you to subscribe to it or not because, truth to tell, this is not really a hard and fast rule. However, if you just wanted to enhance a physical feature or perhaps play down one physical flaw, you can follow this advice. Stripe ties are great for strong and angular face. Meanwhile, dotted and paisley printed ties look good on round or baby face. Solid colors, on the other hand, can be worn by everyone. 

Indeed a necktie may be just a small piece of cloth that makes up your bespoke suit ensemble; however, it plays a huge factor in determining your overall impeccable appearance. So choose well and wear it properly, you’ll never know when you are being judged by your tie.

Dissecting the Finer Details of Bespoke Shirts

To truly understand and to get to know better these highly coveted and expensive garment pieces, the finer details of bespoke shirts must be dissected and studied one by one.

To the fortunate majority few with a discerning eye, they can immediately distinguish if a particular custom suit or shirt is of bespoke tailoring quality or not. It is in the fit, the cut, the fabric materials, and lastly, it’s in the stitching, they say.

There are invariably six fine details that must be studied thoroughly in order to tell whether a shirt is a bespoke shirt or merely pretending and aspiring to be one. And in no particular ranking order of importance, the following are the collar, the cuffs, the buttons, the pleats, the yokes, and the long tails.

First off are the collars of bespoke shirts, this is an important detail because the collar frames the face. It is also the first thing that people notice when they talk or look at someone.

In order to be considered of good quality and well constructed, the collar must be neat, crisp, and most of all, durable. It should not lose form easily and should stay in shape for years.

Other tailoring houses offer removable or sewn-in collar stiffeners, or collar stays.


As for the shirt cuffs, it normally ends four and a half inches from the end of the thumb. And bespoke shirt would not be called as such for nothing, the shirt could be customized to fit and accommodate a big man’s wristwatch. Depending on one’s hand dominance, the cuff link on that side would be a bit bigger.

Meanwhile, the buttons, as befits a bespoke tailoring garment, should be none other than pure mother of pearls. Mother of pearls buttons are of the finest and highest quality and can withstand the wear and tear of repeated use and washings.

As mentioned, these are bespoke shirts and that means that the wearer has the final say on where he should want this next piece of detail.

Pleats are placed generally though at the center of the back, under the yoke, but other options can be made available too.

Another finer detail to watch out for is the yoke of the shirt. The yoke is the fabric that is located at the upper back of the shirt and runs the breadth of the shoulders. The client can have the option to ask for a one-piece yoke or a two-piece yoke.

A two-piece yoke, which is a couple of pieces of fabric sewn together in the middle, is supposedly more durable and can provide a better comfort fit on the body.

And finally, the so-called long tails. The best of them, seams masters, believe that the finest custom shirts should have one. This is to ensure that the shirts will not pop out easily when tucked in at the waist.

Truly understanding and comprehending the finer details of bespoke shirts take a lifetime of study. But once a discerning eye is opened to the superior beauty of it, there is no going back to an inferior quality.