Made to Measure Suits: The Middle Ground Option

How does a man find the balance between a quite expensive suit with a flawless and impeccable fit and a relatively inexpensive ready to wear suit, but one that is essentially quite difficult for the wearer to truly find something to gush over?

The answer: Made to measure suits.

Indeed, more than anything else, a man would be willing to spend top dollar just to get that perfect fit of a men’s suit for him. But for men with lesser financial means, the ideal solution is to find the in-betweens of both worlds. In other words, the middle ground option.

Realistically speaking, not all men would be able to get that feel of a true bespoke suit on themselves. In the world of modern technology and fast machines, a work of art that is done solely and meticulously by a skillful hand is a rare and expensive commodity.

And paradoxically enough, as men become more and more immersed in a high speed world, time likewise becomes more and more the most precious commodity in the world.

But for the average and ordinary wage earner, the price of time that is spent working on bespoke tailoring is a high cost to pay, which is equivalent to a few months’ worth of salary. It would be impractical as well as foolish to buy one, to say the least.

Short of settling down on a relatively inexpensive off the peg suits, which are usually not capable of providing the man with that desired fit and drape on his body, a man has the affordable middle ground option on made to measure suits.

It may be said that made to measure suits are certainly a lot more affordable compared with the top tiers occupied by bespoke suits and custom suits.

In essence, the first choice is typically less expensive compared with the latter choices because the creation of a made to measure suit involves both machine and handmade work. It has been noted that the price of this type of suit is at least 15% more than the ones bought at a department store.

Basically, as the name suggests the suit is still made to fit each client individually with a standard sized base pattern as a starting point of measurement. The unique body nuances and figuration of each individual client are still taken into account before the cloth pattern is cut and sewn together, not unlike a bespoke tailoring.

Not all men may able to reach the pinnacle of custom tailoring, but the middle ground option of made to measure suits sure beats the hell out of just staying on the ground.

Single Button Tailor Made Suits: Who Should Wear Them & Why

You do not often see men wearing single button tailor made suits nowadays. Most of the time, the spotlight is on either a two button or a three button custom suits. 

Perhaps, the reason why a single button tailored suit is not that popular is because this particular suit style does not suit the body type and built of most men. In fact, the body built and stature of men that may be able to manage to pull off wearing a single button suit well is a bit confusing to understand at first.

This is maybe one of the reasons why the preferred suit styles of majority of men, men with average to mid-average height and stature, are either a two button or three button outfit ensemble. And perhaps another compelling reason why many stay away from the single button tailored made suit is because it takes a lot of confidence and a special kind of attitude to wear this type of suit.  

Nevertheless, for the right kind of man, the single button suit has its charms and can even create a nice perfect cut and silhouette for the wearer. Moreover, the suit’s unique statement fashion piece can be an interesting additional mix in a man’s social wear wardrobe collection.

But the question is who should and why wear a single button tailor made suit?

First of all, this suit piece is perfect for very tall and very lean men. And by lean, preferably men sans a protruding midsection because this kind of suit will obviously not hide a less than impressive figure.

And while short men may not present an elegant cut on a single button tailor made suit, for some peculiar reason, short men with a stocky figure can pull off this suit impeccably well also. The reason for this is because the single button provides a focal point that draws the eye of the observer inward, and thus creating an illusion of a trimmer figure. 

As a rather unconventional type of custom suit, it is not common to see single button suit in a conservative work setting. More often than not, this suit is better suited in an after-five setting such as social dinners, gala nights and the like; it can be a refreshing alternative outfit during those formal occasions when a tuxedo can get a bit stuffy while the standard looking two or three button suit are just so trite and common already.

On the whole, the single button tailor made suit is an all-season wear ensemble. It is the suit to wear on special occasions in lieu of his standard tux or two-piece suit, but it takes a certain type of man with the right sort of attitude and confidence in order to pull off that dashing and dapper appearance. 

The Customized Service of a Tailor in Hong Kong

With the increasing demand for quality but affordable custom made suits around the world, it would be literally a walk in the park to find a tailor in Hong Kong. However, stumbling upon a great master of the craft who is knowledgeable of “the way things are” is an altogether different matter.

The city of Hong Kong is famous not just for its breathtaking views and its glittering skyline harbor, but also for its made to measure suits. And currently, there are literally thousands of tailors in the streets of Hong Kong plying their trade to susceptible tourists and residents alike. Some are cheap or affordable while others can truly break one’s pockets.

Sad to say, there are those who would claim to be well-taught on the centuries-old craft of bespoke tailoring, but are clearly lacking the depth and the knowledge of its flawless workmanship and meticulous craftsmanship.

The process of getting fitted for a custom made suit or a custom shirt is not merely obtaining the body size measurement of the client.

It is not just showing the buyer some swatches of clothing pattern and asking him to decide which one he likes best for his suit. Moreover, it is not simply telling the gentleman to come back a day or so after to get his so-called made to measure suit.

And certainly, the process of custom tailoring services should not just end as soon as the goods have been delivered to the customer.

The pride and beauty of this craftsmanship offer so much more than a brisk and speedy delivery of the suit to the buyer. Bespoke tailoring is almost like a lifelong relationship between the tailor and the client.

Even the process of meeting up with one’s tailor, be it in Hong Kong, New York or London, is a lot like a slow courtship dance of getting to know someone. In this sense, it is the master tailor who leads the dance by eliciting as much information as he can from his client-partner.

The master fitter is not just taking body size measurements, he also takes the time to study and observe contours, silhouettes as well as minor body quirks of the client.

The customized service extends to the tailor advising the client on the attributes of a chosen fabric material; meaning where and when is the appropriate time or climate to wear a custom suit created in a particular fabric and etc.

Indeed there is so much more than a tailor in Hong Kong, who is truly knowledgeable in the way things are of bespoke tailoring, can offer a gentleman than by merely measuring the client and delivering a suit.

The Fabric in Custom Suits Makes a Big Difference

Indeed, it is undeniable that elegantly made custom suits makes a big difference in the way a man is perceived by the people around him.

More than anything else, a well-fitted custom made suit is a man’s personal statement piece because it is a reflection of his own preference and fashion taste, especially if he had the final say on the suit’s piece by piece construction.

The choice of color scheme and style of the tailor made suits are certainly important. But likewise critical to the overall result of statement piece is the selection of suit fabrics, which have much to do with both the feel and end appearance of the custom suit.

Actually, mens suits are categorized to either wool or non-wool, and choosing the right kind of suit fabric solely depends on the client’s lifestyle needs including the occasion and the season the suit is needed.

And to determine one’s lifestyle requirements, it is therefore essential for a man wanting to suit himself up impeccably to understand the basic attributes and characteristics of different fabric threads commonly favored by suit makers around the world.

Non-wool suits consist mainly of polyester, linen and cotton. Polyester, a relatively inexpensive man made fabric material, is oftentimes combined with a woolen fabric to offset the expensive cost of a pure woolen custom suit. This fabric combination is good for yearlong wear.

Linen, on the other hand, is ideal for summer wear because it is very light, cool. The downside is that this type of threads attracts wrinkles and creases easily. Moreover, cleaning a linen suit can get very expensive especially if you do it often. Cotton suit has basically the same traits as linen’s.

But for the all time must-have suit fabric is the wool. It is also the favorite threads of tailors because it is easy to work with in terms of cutting and styling. Custom suits made of wool are likely to retain its shape for years despite repeated uses and washings.

A pure wool tailor made suit may be expensive, but the high price is worth it in the long run in keeping a gentleman looking well put and elegant for many years to come. And that should be priceless.

Of all the different types of woolen fabric, tweed is one of the most popular especially in the older generation. Tweed, which is a heavy fabric, is ideal during winter time because it keeps the wearer warm. Another perfect wear during the cold days is the flannel suit.

But for the all season wear, the best choice is the worsted wool. It is very durable, and depending upon the weave production it can be made into light or heavyweight suit. A great thing about worsted wool bespoke suits is that it very durable and practically crease-resistant.

Certainly, there are hundreds of different types of suit fabric that will fit your lifestyle needs. Whether you choose a non-wool or woolen custom suit, the important thing is that your suit fabric is appropriate for the occasion and the season.

Why Buying Big Mens Clothing Could Be Twice the Fun

Buying big mens clothing could certainly become twice the fun and exciting experience compared to a regular-sized chap shopping at the mall.

First of all, as a big plus man, you would have already recognized and accepted the fact that you have limited store options going to the mall. So your time will not be wasted by a lot of musings and deliberations at the store front window display of model-thin mannequins.

You are quite certain that those handsome fitted shirts and elegant suits on the mannequins will not fit you due to the fact that that particular shop does not carry any big mens clothing.

Thus, there is no need to waste your time scouring every nook and cranny of the mall looking for that perfect shirt or suit ensemble and the best bargain deals. Instead, you can just go directly to shops that already advertise or cater to “big sized clothing for men” or “plus sizes for men”.

The average gentleman, on the other hand, will be quite confused with the numerous selections to be had.

But perhaps, the most important point of all why buying big mens clothing could be twice the fun is because there is no need to feel absurdly guilty if you decide once and for all to have only custom made clothes.

It is quite expensive, after all, to have custom suits and tailored shirts compared with buying them off the rack or in ready to wear stores.

However, you can always tell your strict conscience that you have no other choice but to do so; some people are just bigger than average and no amount of alterations on regular sized clothes would fit you. After all, you also do need to look handsome and elegant in your own clothes.

And so this is where the fun of buying big mens clothing really begins.

Without question, it is more fun to wear custom suits and tailored shirts because you are quite certain that you look great in clothing especially made for you.

Moreover, the fitted shirts will definitely fit your physique; none of those off the rack types wherein you look like a stuffed cabbage because the fit is quite terrible.

You could even let loose your creative juices and design your own shirts and suits. Show off your elegant or funky side in the styles and colors of your shirts and suits.

A big plus, no pun intended of course, is the thought that your clothing design and styles are uniquely yours. There is only a slim chance of bumping into someone with the exact same shirt design, pattern and color style.

So really, buying big mens clothing need not be a tedious chore and something to be dreaded at. You just have to go straight to your favorite tailoring shop.

Shoes & Socks That Fit on Mens Suits

After the state of quality of mens suits, the next thing that people notice on a gentleman is his taste in shoes and socks - if everything fits perfectly.

The shoes, as well as the socks of course, must match the whole look. Or else, everything falls apart. Not even the most expensive bespoke clothing or made to measure suits can save the gentleman’s cherished reputation. He certainly could be ruined for good and would now be the subject of whisperings in the hallowed office corridors.

Such is the power of the shoes and socks when paired wrongly with a particular custom fitted suit. One bad decision in the early hours of a fine morning could definitely have long term consequences.

But these dire warnings should not prevent anyone from developing a risk-taking attitude, fashion wise of course. Although in general, the only way one could play around with the rules and become an exception to them is to know the rules first.

One good rule of thumb to remember is that shoes and socks should be slightly darker than the pants or the men’s suit. However, if a man has the right personality for it, he can certainly make a fashion statement by wearing socks that match the color of his tie.

For example, a gentleman wearing dark colored tie such as burgundy red or deep emerald green can surely add some spice to his suit ensemble by wearing similar red or green shades of socks.

Another point of consideration is to avoid wearing black socks on any pants that is not black. Even dark navy men’s suits should be paired with dark navy socks.

As for the shoes, high quality leather is the preferred style of all times, especially when paired with an elegant-looking made to measure suit.

Similarly, it is best to stay away from black leather shoes with brown or khaki colored pants.

But in the end, no matter how well the whole men’s suits and the color of the socks and all the other pieces fit together, if the state of care of the gentleman’s shoes and socks leave nothing to be desired then nothing is achieved in the end.

Dissecting the Finer Details of Bespoke Shirts

To truly understand and to get to know better these highly coveted and expensive garment pieces, the finer details of bespoke shirts must be dissected and studied one by one.

To the fortunate majority few with a discerning eye, they can immediately distinguish if a particular custom suit or shirt is of bespoke tailoring quality or not. It is in the fit, the cut, the fabric materials, and lastly, it’s in the stitching, they say.

There are invariably six fine details that must be studied thoroughly in order to tell whether a shirt is a bespoke shirt or merely pretending and aspiring to be one. And in no particular ranking order of importance, the following are the collar, the cuffs, the buttons, the pleats, the yokes, and the long tails.

First off are the collars of bespoke shirts, this is an important detail because the collar frames the face. It is also the first thing that people notice when they talk or look at someone.

In order to be considered of good quality and well constructed, the collar must be neat, crisp, and most of all, durable. It should not lose form easily and should stay in shape for years.

Other tailoring houses offer removable or sewn-in collar stiffeners, or collar stays.


As for the shirt cuffs, it normally ends four and a half inches from the end of the thumb. And bespoke shirt would not be called as such for nothing, the shirt could be customized to fit and accommodate a big man’s wristwatch. Depending on one’s hand dominance, the cuff link on that side would be a bit bigger.

Meanwhile, the buttons, as befits a bespoke tailoring garment, should be none other than pure mother of pearls. Mother of pearls buttons are of the finest and highest quality and can withstand the wear and tear of repeated use and washings.

As mentioned, these are bespoke shirts and that means that the wearer has the final say on where he should want this next piece of detail.

Pleats are placed generally though at the center of the back, under the yoke, but other options can be made available too.

Another finer detail to watch out for is the yoke of the shirt. The yoke is the fabric that is located at the upper back of the shirt and runs the breadth of the shoulders. The client can have the option to ask for a one-piece yoke or a two-piece yoke.

A two-piece yoke, which is a couple of pieces of fabric sewn together in the middle, is supposedly more durable and can provide a better comfort fit on the body.

And finally, the so-called long tails. The best of them, seams masters, believe that the finest custom shirts should have one. This is to ensure that the shirts will not pop out easily when tucked in at the waist.

Truly understanding and comprehending the finer details of bespoke shirts take a lifetime of study. But once a discerning eye is opened to the superior beauty of it, there is no going back to an inferior quality.